Products

Pricing and Options for your custom Drake instrument

Drake Custom Basses and Guitars are built to your specs with many options and features available, that are perfect for the active musician.   You get to decide on the shape and overall appearance of your instrument as well as: woods, scale length, number of frets, and electronics package for your custom instrument.  I can help you design and make your ideas into reality.

I have put together the following information to help guide you through the process of selecting features for your instrument.  I have provided samples of my work to depict wood types and descriptions.  All examples are Drake instruments built in my shop.

All listed base prices on Drake Custom instruments are priced with the standard features listed below.  Upgrades and additional options can be added to the basic features and are available for additional charge.  Prices listed in each section and are the cost to be added to the base price, for that particular feature.  Example: Wenge necks are an additional $100 to the base price of an instrument.  On the 4 string bass, base price $2700, the total price would then be $2800.

Standard Features

Quartered Torrified (roasted)  Maple neck wood

Dual action truss rod

Carbon fiber neck stabilization

Your choice of 32, 33, 34, or 35 inch scale length on Basses and 24.75,  25 or 25.5 inch scale for guitars. Stainless Steel wire.

Hipshot A style bridge and ultra-lite tuners

Polyurethane finish

Dunlop straplocks

Macassar Ebony fretboard or Rocklite Ebano simulated black Ebony (Looks real, does not have the issues real Ebony has).

Peg head veneer to match body

Drake D logo in alternative MOP

Luminlay side dots and .25 inch alternative MOP face dot inlays

Body woods of Ash or Alder.  Other choices available.

Topwoods of: Figured Myrtle, Curly Maple, Quilt Maple, Walnut, Madrone.

Electronics package is not included in the base price due to the vast range of possibilities.  I favor EMG, Aguilar, Seymour Duncan, and Nordstrand, and TV Jones brands.  I can use whatever is requested.


Basic pricing by instrument type and string number

4 STRING BASS…………………………………………………………….$2700

5 STRING BASS…………………………………………………………….$2850

6 STRING BASS……………………………………………………………..$3050

Other instruments or string configurations please call for estimate.

 

 

NECK CONSTRUCTION

 

Necks are cut to spec.  Since I hand cut and carve all of my necks, you can specify thickness, profile, and width at the nut and heel.  If you have a neck that you love, I can work from the specs of that neck.

Wenge neck………………………………………………………………………+ $100

Roasted (caramelized) 5A Curly Maple……………………………………….+135

Other wood choices…………………………………………………………….CALL

3 piece neck……………………………………………………………….+$100

5 piece neck………………………………………………………………….+$150

7 piece neck………………………………………………………………….+$200

Set neck construction……………………………………………………………+$100

Thru neck construction……………………………………………………+ $250

Headstock shape,  your choice………………………………………………….N/C

Glow in the dark side dot inlays……………………………………………..+N/C

Headstock veneer to match body top wood………………………………+$75

Neck wood Samples . Click on the pictures for a larger view

 

This is my go to wood for necks and is the standard neck wood for most Drake instruments 2016 and on.  This is Torrified Maple (roasted Maple, caramelized Maple, Tempered Maple) and it has all the stability and tone you can ask for.  Hands down, the best wood for necks in my opinion.   I have used a lot of it starting in early 2016, and I love the tones and working properties of this wood.  Does not need finish to remain stable though I do advise that we at least do a oil varnish at least to keep the wood clean.

 

 

 

 

Maple.  The most common wood for necks in solid body guitars and basses.  Nice bright tones that can be reigned in with fret board choices.  I use quarter sawn Maple for necks.

 

 

 

 

 

Birdseye Maple.  This is a beautifully figured wood and can be very expensive for highly figured pieces.  Usually flat sawn to show the birdseye figure better.  Very hard and bright in tone.

 

 

 

 

Flamed Maple.  This wood is usually flat sawn to show the figure better.  Not as ridgid as the non-figured variety, but this wood still makes a nice neck that looks amazing.  I do use carbon fiber inside necks made of figured Maple, so no worries about the neck’s strength.

 

 

 

 

 

Sapele.  I use this wood when I desire to have a Mahogany colored neck but with more strength than Mahogany.  This wood has a slightly brighter tone than Mahogany but still has that nice low-mid warmth and a detailed top end.  Paired with an Ebony fret board, the tone of a neck made out of Sapele is quick with lots of growl.

 

 

 

 

Wenge has been one of my favorite woods to use in basses and guitars.  It is perfect for those who like a raw wood feeling neck as this wood needs no finish to keep it stable.  The color is usually very dark chocolate brown and I prefer to use quarter sawn pieces with the tight grain pattern.  Flat sawn pieces have a scaly look to them.  The tone of this wood is more compressed than with Maples.  A very nice warm growl tone can be had when using Wenge as a neck wood.  This wood is in a very limited supply and I do not stock it.  Call for availability.

 

 

FRET BOARD/ FINGER BOARD WOODS & OPTIONS:

Drake basses and guitars can be made with almost any kind of fret/ finger board woods.  The base price includes the finger/fret board made out of Macassar Ebony.  Other wood choices available upon request for additional charge.

Wood bound fret boards………………………………………………………..+$100

Lined fretless FB lined with wood lines……………………………………..+$55

Unlined fretless finger board…………………………………………………….N/C

 

 

Click on pictures for larger view

Bois De Rose

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pau Ferro (Morado)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bubinga

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maple

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Macassar Ebony

 

 

 

 

 

 

Indian Rosewood

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ebony

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wenge

 

 

 

 

FRET WIRE OPTIONS

I can do any size fret wire you wish.  My go to Brand is Jescar and my go to size is their smaller vintage gauge stainless steel wire.  Easy to play on and very durable.  It stays shiny and does not tarnish or get dull looking.  This is the standard wire I use, and do so unless otherwise directed.

Nickel is the basic fret wire that you find most common on instruments, and I can use that upon request.

For a little flash for your instrument, there is EVO gold wire.  This wire is gold all of the way through and the color does not wear off.  This wire is a little harder than nickel and has a longer life.

Gold EVO wire…………………………………………………………………………..+ $25

Stainless steel wire of a larger gauge……………………………………………+ $25

 

 

BODY CONSTRUCTION

It is my philosophy that wood does make a difference in the overall tone of your instrument.  There are a few wood combinations that have reliably produced predictable tones and certain weight parameters for my designs.  Please feel free to ask any questions about tone woods and combinations that may help you find the tone you are looking for.  The largest factor is probably the body wood, then neck wood, fret board, and lastly the top wood.

Remember that dense harder woods tend to sound brighter and softer woods tend to sound warmer.  Even though certain species of woods have predominant tones, every single piece of wood is different.  There are also many other factors (such as electronics, bridge material, etc…) in determining the tone of an instrument.  Therefore I will not guarantee any specific tone for any custom order.  I will get as close as I can using my experience in selecting woods, and then help select electronics to compliment the wood choice and achieve the tone you are looking for.    Please consider: natural tones of the wood, appearance, and durability in your selection of body woods.

TOPS:

All Drake instruments have topwood options available.  Your choice of Figured Myrtle, Maples of various figure, Madrone, or Walnut.  Other tops available for additional charge.  Most tops include an accent stripe of Walnut or black wood between the back and top woods.

If you want to pick out a specific piece of wood for your top, I can help you search, via my suppliers, that have been proven to supply good quality, properly dried woods, suitable for instrument construction.  The selection must fit within my size and moisture requirements to be used.  Bookmatching or re-sawing of customer selected wood choices may cost extra.

For “call” woods where the customer wants to pick out the actual specific piece of wood, I do charge an additional fee as that process can be very time consuming as I have to keep sending links with pictures for the customer to approve or dis-approve.  I encourage customers to do this if they wish to select the wood themselves, but it can take a long time to find the material this way.

If, for example, you want a burled Maple top.  I can easily find something like that and get the best pieces when I can just select the wood and buy it on the spot.  So when contacting me about your topwood choice, please have some links with picture examples of the wood and figure grade you want so that I may be able to search more specifically.  I will try to find and use a top that is as close to your examples as I can.  If I am trusted to find the and purchase the top that I find to be the closest match, then there is no fee.

For “call” wood………………………………………………………………………………………………….+$100

Here are various top woods that I can use to make your bass.

 

Click on the pictures for a larger view

 

This is Flamed or Tiger Maple.  It is a hard and durable wood that takes on a golden color when under finish.  It is probably the most common top wood for guitars and basses.  Dyes and tints can really bring out the figure and both satin and gloss sheens look amazing on this wood. Lacquer or oil finished

 

 

 

 

 

 

Burled Maple is another common guitar top wood that has many lacy looking characteristics and a deeper golden color under finish.  This wood looks great with both glossy and satin finish.  Some voids and inclusions have to be filled and stabilized when using this wood, but the look of the finished wood is stunning.  Lacquer or oil finished.

 

 

Quilted Maple is a fine wood for dyes and tints as well as clear finishes.  The wavy pattern in the wood reflects light in a way that shimmers.  Pale tan to a golden color naturally under finish and ages to a more golden over time.  Lacquer or oil finished.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spalted Maple has a beautiful contrast between the lighter colored parts and the black “ink” lines.   The dark lines are caused by the tree decaying.   Some stabilization may have to be done to harden some parts of this wood before finishing.  Stabilization is time consuming and may cost extra.  Best if finished in lighter colors for the most effect.  Lacquer finished.

 

 

 

Myrtlewood is a greenish tan wood that can have some real nice figure and may show black or brown grain lines.  This wood can look great with most finishes.  Lacquer or oil finished.

 

 

 

 

Madrone is another North American hardwood that I use mostly with the burled figure.  This wood is a pale pinkish color when raw but takes on a little more tan color under a clear finish.  I usually tint this wood to warm it up a bit.  Finished in lacquer or oil.

 

 

 

 

Lacewood is an exotic wood that has a nice fish/ snake scale style grain.  This wood can look amazing under lacquer or oil finishes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zebrawood is from Africa and is pretty obvious why it is called Zebrawood.  It is a dense hard wood that looks great when paried with the dark brown colors of Walnut and Wenge.  Has a yellow color under either lacquer or oil finish.

 

 

 

 

Redwood.  From NW United States.  This is a very beautiful wood for instruments, and with a warmer tone.  This wood is pretty soft and it is not good under oil finishes.  If you use this wood on a bass (and are a slap style player), you can expect to have some wear showing over time.  Before sanding and shaping, I must stabilize the wood with a thin epoxy so there is an additional charge for use of this wood.

 

 

 

Walnut is probably my favorite dark wood to use on tops.  Some pieces can have flamed figuring and many colors ranging from purple to orange mixed in with the predominant browns.  Looks nice under oiled and lacquer finishes.  Pictured here the Walnut is under a satin finish.

 

 

 

 

BODY WOOD: 

Body wood choices for bodies with laminated tops are: Alder, Swamp Ash,  and Basswood.  These woods have proven themselves as ideal body woods and can provide excellent tones.  In 2016, I have made a move toward using torrified North American woods as much as possible.  These woods are very stable, have a wonderful tone, and are somewhat lighter in weight than the non-torrified counterparts.  I can get these woods in Alder, Basswood, and Swamp Ash. 

Bodies that are to be made without tops are available in one or two piece bodies of: Mahogany, Swamp Ash, Soft Maple, Sapele, and Alder.  If weight is an issue, consider using Swamp Ash or Alder for a solid body.

 

 

 

Mahogany is one of the most common woods for solid body basses.  It has a nice low-mid growl and a lot of punch.  I have found this to be my go to body wood.  Mahogany has a nice orange brown color that is sometimes lighter or darker than shown here.  A great combination is with Wenge or Maple necks.  One piece bodies available.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sapele shares many of the same qualities as Mahogany but with a touch more brightness to the tone.  This wood can be heavier so I chamber most bodies using this wood.  The ribbon like figure you see here is common to this wood.  Colors can be from orange-brown to brown.  Good with Wenge and Maple necks.  One piece bodies available.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Walnut is a beautiful dark wood that can range from very dark brown to a lighter brown with streaks of each.  This wood has a darker tone that can be warmer depending on the piece of wood being used.  I find that this wood sounds best when a light piece is used or when it is heavily chambered.  A good combination for Walnut has been Maple necks with Maple or Ebony fret boards.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alder is probably the most popular wood used for both guitar and basses by many companies.  It has a warmer round tone that can be brightened with the right pickups.  It is a softer wood that is light in weight and has a tan to yellow color under finish.   Works well with a Maple neck and Rosewood fret boards for a classic tone signature.  This wood needs a hard finish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Ash, or Swamp Ash, that I use, is not like the baseball bat Ash.  It is lighter in weight and has a deep grain pattern.  The tone has been described as having a mid-range “pop” and a tight bottom.  Brighter highs than Alder.  This wood obtains a yellow color under finish.  A thin but hard type of finish sounds the best in my opinion.  This is a softer wood and can not take much abuse so a hard finish, like lacquer, is recommended.  One piece bodies available.

 

 

 

 

 

 

BODY SHAPE:

I glue up all body blanks and carve them by hand.  I can make any of the shapes that you see on this website or modify any one of the shapes to meet your specifications.  All body shapes and peg head designs are interchangeable and adaptable to your tastes. If my designs or shapes are not to your liking,  I will be happy to draw up something for you to approve of for your body shape.  When a customer chooses to do this there is a lot of communication back and forth between the customer and myself during the design phase.  Please be patient and note that the build times may be longer if the design is more complicated.  If the order is for something like my Models 7, 8, or 9 basses, for example, the wait time is much less as I have experience with the designs and tooling made to assist in construction.

Most of my bodies are 1.5 inches thick with a bass weighing in at 7.5-8 pounds.  They feel slim and comfortable against the body with less of a need for extreme forearm contouring or belly cuts.  They look good and feel great.  If you like the more traditional thicker bodies, I have been making some 1.75 inch thick bodies.  Basses with the 1.75 inch thickness usually weigh in at 8-9 pounds.  If weight is an issue please make that very clear to me so we can get you an instrument to fit your needs best.

I do chamber out the cores of most bodies I build.  This reduces weight and mass which seems to round out the tone a bit.  I can leave them solid by request.

HARDWARE

Drake basses typically use Hipshot brand A style bridges in black finish and are featured in the base price.  I prefer the aluminum bridges for the lower weight and added presence in the tone.  Brass bridges tend to have more sustain where as aluminum bridges stand out in the mix better. I can also use Hipshot B,D, TLD styled bridges as well as hardware from various other brands also available upon request.

Gold or shiny chrome finish on tuners and bridge (basses)……………………………+$40

String Thru Body Feature………………………………………………………….+$50

ELECTRONICS

With custom built instruments, the electronics possibilities are subject to personal preference and too numerous to list all of them here.   The electronics package is not included in the base price listed for Drake instruments.   If you do not have a specific package in mind please call and I can help you decide on one.

BASS PICKUPS

For basses I favor EMG, Nordstrand, Aguilar, TV Jones, And Seymour Duncan.  I can use other brands as well, but I have worked with these brands and am familiar with them and how they sound.

BASS PREAMPS

I can use any preamp requested by the customer.  I have had good results with EMG, Nordstrand, Aguilar, and Pope.  Please realize that I will have to pay full retail for other brands, so there is more of an up-charge for electronics from other companies than those listed above.

 

INLAY OPTIONS

Please note that in 2016, I am making the move to using alternative MOP as an inlay material.  I will still do abalone and MOP inlays but such options are an up-charge.

All shell options can be made with Paua Abalone or Mother of Pearl.

Shell Block/Trap fret board inlay…………………………………………………+$350

Wood Block fret board inlay………………………………………………………..+125

Shell diamonds fret board inlay…………………………………………………….+$200

Fret board shell 5/16 inch dots………………………+$30

Shell side dots……………………………………………………………………………+$20

Drake Script style logo……………………………………………………………..+$80

Other custom features?  Please call or email for pricing and details.

 

FINISH 

Drake Custom instruments can be finished in a wide variety of finish styles.  I use acrylic lacquer, urethane, polyurethane, oil finish, and wax finishes as per request.  A standard instrument will be finished in polyurethane.  All other finish options are extra.

Satin lacquer finish……………………………………………………………+$100

Gloss lacquer finish………………………………………………………………………..+ $200

Tinted lacquer finish………………………………………………….+$300

Tru Oil finish………………………………………………………………………………….+ $100

Oil/urethane based varnish……………………………………………………………………….+$100

High endurance polyurethane, satin sheen…………………………………………………….N/C

High endurance urethane, gloss……………………………………………………………….+$200

 

REPAIRS and COSMETIC UPGRADES

For repairs and cosmetic upgrades on Drake instruments.

Complete removal of old finish and replace with polyurethane………..$400

Repair of surface damage…………………………………………………………CALL

Replace or upgrade of hardware………………………………………………….CALL

Add Drake Logo (Older models pre-dating logos)………………………………$50

Re-fret, complete, level and crown included……………………..$300  $375 for bound or Maple fret boards.

Partial re-fret, level and crowning included……………..$20 per fret  Extra charge for Maple or bound fret boards.

Level and re-crown of frets………………………………………………………….$75

Fret end dress…………………………………………………………………………..$20-$45

 

Though I am not well known for repair work, I do on occasion take on special repair or modification projects.  Call to discuss the pricing of this work.

 

REPAIRS (Non- Drake Instruments)

Complete set up…………………………………………..$50 + string cost

Complete set up (Floyd Rose)………………………..$75 + string cost

Nut replacement (Tusq)…………………………………$75

Level and re-crown frets…………………………….$125 with set up included.

Dress fret ends…………………………………………..$50

Replace frets (partial)……………………………….$25 each

Full fret replacement…………………………………$350

Additional cost for Maple, bound fret boards, or thru style necks

Replace pickup(s) (modified cavity)……………….$75 + pickup cost

Replace Pickup(s) unmodified cavity………………$30 + pickup cost

Replace pot………………………………………………$20 + parts cost

Replace output Jack……………………………………….$20 + parts cost

Replace hardware (unmodified)……………………………….$30 + parts cost

Excludes Floyd Rose replacement.  Call for pricing.

Replace hardware (modified)……………………………………..Call

Misc………………………………………………………………………….Call